Archive for the ‘Rabbit’ Category

Fly strike in rabbits – and how to avoid it.

An estimated 1.5 million rabbits are kept as pets in the UK. They are increasingly popular, no doubt for their sweet, amusing personalities and, what some might be surprised to hear, their surprising ability and willingness to learn and to be interactive members of the family. Awareness of the best way to care for rabbits is on the increase. From the requirement to keep them with at least one other rabbit, to their complex dietary needs, bunnies are being cared for better than ever. And yet there is one issue, one agonising problem that rabbits continually come to us vets with, and that is fly strike. Fly strike is an unpleasant, painful and sometimes fatal condition that, tragically, is often only noticed once it is well developed. We can help you to recognise the early signs, and to make some very necessary checks for this awful disease.

First it’s helpful for you to know what fly strike is (technical term for fly strike is myiasis), and it really is just as its name describes. The green bottle fly seeks an environment to lay its eggs. The perfect environment is one which is warm and preferably with a ready food source. Bunnies, as well as other animals such as sheep, commonly fit the description, especially if their rear ends are covered in faeces or urine, as the odour attracts the fly.

Having been laid upon the rabbit, eggs develop into maggots, which in turn feast upon your bunny’s flesh. It is as gruesome as it sounds and also extremely painful. The sooner we see these bunnies at the vets, the sooner we, along with our strong-stomached nurses, can painstakingly remove each maggot with special instruments. We will provide your bunny with pain relief, fluid therapy, and whatever else they might need for the best chance of recovery.

It is obvious then, that preventing this kind of suffering is far better than curing it. The first step in the fight against fly strike is to identify it early, so it’s helpful to know which rabbits are especially at risk.

Those with dirty derrieres is the best place to begin. It is vital that rabbit enclosures are cleaned out regularly, and this is especially true in the spring and summer months because a dirty environment will attract the green bottle fly. A large, suitably-sized enclosure is not only important for the mental well-being and physical fitness of a rabbit, but will also allow them to move away from dirty areas, keeping themselves clean. Given the chance, a rabbit is a clean creature, who likes to urinate and defecate in one area, and eat, play and sleep in another.

Another key risk factor for fly strike is obesity, due to low-slung rear ends dragging through faeces and urine, as well as the inability for overweight rabbits to get to the ‘hard to reach’ areas in order to clean themselves effectively. Ensuring an appropriate diet and keeping your rabbits in good, healthy condition can do wonders for preventing fly strike.

What’s more, an overly rich diet causes faeces to be soft, sometimes runny and therefore more likely to coat their fur. For example, you might be surprised to learn that 85% of a rabbit’s diet should be roughage such as hay or grass. For more information on the appropriate diet for your rabbit, and to ensure you’re feeding roughage, vegetables and commercially prepared pellets in the right proportions, please get in touch, we are more than happy to advise.

Another group of rabbits that are less fussy about personal hygiene are the aged. As a rabbit embarks on a slower pace of life, perhaps they are less inclined to move away from dirty areas in their enclosure. Arthritis is also a very real problem that can make it hard for rabbits to contort themselves in such a way as to allow themselves to clean every nook and cranny. Thus older rabbits are potentially more likely to be dirty and therefore are exposed to increased risks.

So as well as a clean environment, maintaining a healthy body weight and a good quality and appropriate diet, how else can we prevent fly strike?

Fundamental to the care of your rabbit is checking them from nose to tail regularly. Not only should you check for other parasites, cuts and bumps, the condition of teeth, rabbit owners also need to be checking their rear ends undercarriage every day. Checking for fly eggs, sores (another way-in for maggots) and cleaning away any muck is necessary.

It will have the added bonus of desensitising a rabbit to being handled, which will in turn make them a more sociable pet. Other signs indicative of fly strike include lethargy, anorexia and potentially a strong odour. Should you notice any of these signs, you should get in touch immediately.

There are topical treatments available for the prevention of fly strike and we highly recommend that you use them during the warmer months. Our preferred treatment is one that you apply to your rabbit every ten weeks and it acts as a repellent to flies – ask one of our vets for details of this prescription-only medicine.

We hope you have found this information useful. The key message here is check regularly and get in touch with us for advice if you are in any doubt.

Do Rabbits Need A Companion? What Happens When I Go On Holiday?

Rabbits are the 3rd most popular pet in the UK, behind cats and dogs, and it’s easy to see why. They are intelligent and inquisitive animals, making them an extremely rewarding pet choice. However, before getting a rabbit it’s important to plan ahead and make sure you are prepared to meet all their needs, just as you would for a cat or dog. One important thing to consider is companionship; does your rabbit need a companion?

In the wild, rabbits live in large, complex social groups and enjoy having company from their own species. Our pet rabbits are no different; they too need company from at least one other rabbit in order to be happy.  Rabbits that are kept alone are much more likely to develop unwanted behaviours and habits that could harm their health. Many people think that other pets such as guinea pigs or even the family cat and dog may get on with their rabbit. Although they may get on, they should never be left unsupervised as they could harm each other. However, nothing beats the company of another rabbit.

It is easiest to get two rabbits that have been kept together from birth; however, rabbits less than 12 weeks old will usually get along together. A neutered male and a neutered female are an ideal pairing, but two females or two males from the same litter should get along if both are neutered.

Neutering your rabbit has numerous benefits, but includes preventing unwanted babies and reducing aggressive behaviour that may lead to fighting. We would always recommend neutering your rabbits and you can come and speak to one of our vets about neutering at any time.

Introducing two older rabbits should be done more carefully but is often successful. As for younger rabbits, we recommend that older rabbits are also neutered regardless of sex. We also suggest that, when choosing rabbits to introduce, you select rabbits of a similar age and size if possible. Personalities may also influence a rabbit’s ability to be introduced to companions, so choosing compatible personality types can make the process smoother.

When introducing older rabbits the key is to do it slowly and supervised at all times. Scent and smells are very important to rabbits, so a good first step can be to swap furniture and bedding so the rabbits get used to each other’s smells. It can also be a good idea to introduce rabbits early in the day so you have the rest of the day to supervise their behaviour.

One option for introduction is to use neutral territory. Use a large but secure area that is unfamiliar to both rabbits. Make sure you provide plenty of hiding places and positive distractions such as treats. The rabbits should be placed at far ends of the space and allowed to move together in their own time. Some chasing is normal but any signs of stress or aggression should be treated with extreme caution and the interaction stopped. Fighting can be very harmful to your rabbit as they have very thin skin that tears easily. Rabbits that get on well together may be able to be housed in a neutral hutch overnight. However, if you have any doubts, its best to be cautious and continue to gradually introduce them in the same manner over the course of a few days until confident.

Another option for the introduction of older rabbits is separate runs. This method is good if you are not around to supervise all interactions, or there is no neutral space available. Place the rabbits in separate runs, arranged so they are next to each other. Swap the rabbits over occasionally to prevent them establishing territory, and keep up positive reinforcement such as treats. The rabbits will gradually get to each other this way. Once they appear friendly with each other (e.g. lying next to each other against wire) then they may be introduced in a joint run. Take care not to rush the introduction in the joint run as this can take many days to achieve.

Regardless of when you introduce two rabbits, in order to live happily together, they will need a suitable living arrangement. This may be indoors as house rabbits, or outside between a hutch and run. If living indoors, the rabbits should be provided with plenty of space to roam as well as protection from wires and other hazards. If housing in a run and hutch, then both areas should have plenty of space and be tall enough for your rabbits to stand on their hind legs. Whether housed outdoors or indoors, your rabbits’ living spaces should have multiple food bowls and water drinkers, as well as litter trays, so the rabbits do not have to share. There should also be quiet spaces such as igloos or tunnels for rabbits to hide from people as well as each other if they wish. Providing toys such as tunnels, balls and chews can help alleviate boredom and reduce the chance of fights occurring.

Of course, there are exceptions to every rule and some rabbits may dislike company from other rabbits. However, in these cases, it is recommended that you discuss this with one of our vets to rule out any other problems. If your rabbit does need to be kept alone then it is important to spend time interacting with them daily, as you will be their companion.  Even if rabbits have other rabbits as companions daily interaction is a great way to create a bond with your rabbit.

So, now your rabbit has a companion, what happens when you go on holiday? Although your rabbits may not rely on you for companionship they still need daily care and attention.  Unpredictable factors such as adverse weather or illness could happen at any time and so it is always worth having a trustworthy person to care for your rabbits when you are away. A reliable family member, friend, or even hired pet sitters are all great options for pet care when you are away. Ideally, they should visit your rabbits at least once or twice a day. They should be given clear instructions to carry out each day as well as your contact numbers if they are unsure about anything. Our vet’s contact details should also be provided for emergencies.

Company and daily care are both essential parts of keeping your rabbits healthy and happy. If you have any concerns or need any advice for your bunnies then remember our knowledgeable vets are available to talk.

 

How to keep your rabbits sane

If you’ve ever had the pleasure of seeing a bunny ‘binky’, you will know that it’s hard to beat. The leap and twisting of their body is a sign of pure enjoyment and it’s a true delight to witness. We want bunny ‘binkying’ to be a regular feature in your rabbit’s life, so we’ve got some advice to help them enjoy life to the full.

Imagine being locked in your home and garden, with just the odd trip out to a friend’s house a couple of times a week. Then imagine having no television or radio or anything to keep you occupied. Similarities can be drawn in keeping rabbits cooped up with nothing to play with and no real change to their surroundings, and rabbits can become bored and depressed. So unless they have acres to roam in safety (and let’s face it most of us can’t afford them that luxury), then guess who they will rely on as their source of entertainment? That’s right, you! Quite the responsibility, but don’t panic, we have some handy tips to get you started.

Firstly, make your job easier; give your rabbit as much space as possible for their home. As a minimum, a pair of medium sized rabbits should have an enclosure of 3 x 1 x 1 metres in size. They require at least an uninterrupted three metre length to run and play naturally, as well as a sleeping area. The height of a rabbit enclosure is often overlooked, because their shape is seemingly low to the ground. Rabbits will stand on their hind legs and they must have provision to do so for the health of their skeleton and muscles. With the basics in place, why not also consider whether they can be let out in the garden for a really good explore every now and then. Obviously not recommended unless your garden is enclosed and supervising them is the only way to be sure they’re safe from predators such as cats and dogs and foxes.

Now the real fun starts!  There are all sorts of novel ways you can provide enrichment to your rabbits’ lives, let’s first consider toys. Never underestimate your rabbit’s desire to play. They are full to the brim with character; you just need to press the right buttons to expose it, something which you will find very rewarding. Rabbit toys are available to buy in abundance these days, from balls that they love to push and throw, to activity toys where they must find the hidden treat. But you needn’t spend lots of money, sometimes the simple things in life are the best – consider making your own. A toilet roll stuffed with hay and other treats can provide hours of entertainment.

How about stringing a ‘washing-line’ across their cage and pegging various delights all the way along? Don’t forget furniture too. In the wild a rabbit is used to jumping over logs and roots, and burrowing and tunnelling. So provide platforms and tunnels for them to re-enact this natural behaviour. You will encourage them to run and jump and duck and scurry, and it will do them the world of good. Take food foraging one stage further and recreate ‘the wild’ by spreading their food around the enclosure. Hide pieces of carrots as a treat (not daily), in different areas and make them work for it a little.

Entertaining your rabbits can massively increase the bond between you. Take the time to handle them, stroke and massage them and also take the opportunity to check them over for health concerns. If your rabbit isn’t used to being handled then start slow and with short sessions. Human interaction will really break up your rabbits’ day and give you the opportunity to enjoy them as a pet. Consider teaching them some tricks – rabbits can learn a surprising number of party-tricks, from jumping through hoops to running through tunnels. If you’ve ever seen rabbits ‘show-jumping’ you’ll know it’s a sight to behold. If not, then you must Google it! Always ensure training methods are positive and reward based to further increase the bond.

So a rabbit’s horizon needn’t be small, there is so much you can do to broaden it. With a little creativity and investment of time we think you’ll enjoy play-time just as much as they will.

The cost of a rabbit

Rabbits are charismatic, inquisitive and intelligent beings. They can be wonderful pets, if you can offer them sufficient space and time, and the ability to express natural behaviours such as company with their own species, and plenty of food to forage on. We must also consider the financial implications of welcoming a Peter Rabbit or a Bugs Bunny into our lives; despite their small size, regular vet trips on top of bedding and food costs can really add up! Let’s have a look at some of the costs of getting – and keeping! – a long-eared friend.

One off costs

  1. A home! A rabbit will need a large hutch to stretch his powerful legs in, and, ideally, an outdoor run too. A nice outdoor home for your rabbit can cost around £200, and often considerably more, and will require replacement or fixing if the wood begins to rot. Indoor homes can be under half the price of an outdoor run, but do be careful to ensure your rabbit has enough space to take big hops comfortably, stand up on his hind legs, and lie down fully stretched out.
  2. Water bottles and food dishes. Equipment like this will also need to be bought, and many people decide to use a hay-rack, fitted inside their rabbit’s home, to enable them to keep their bedding and food separate. It is also a great idea to get your rabbit toys to gnaw on, and wear down their ever-erupting teeth.
  3. Castration and spaying. It is highly advisable to have a doe (female rabbit) spayed, or a buck (male rabbit) neutered. These procedures can prevent cancers in both males (testicular cancer), and females (uterine and ovarian, and greatly reduce the chance of mammary tumours). It will also allow you to keep bucks together with a reduced chance of fighting, or mixed-sex pairings without the risk of some kittens! (A ‘kitten’ is the term used for baby rabbits.)

Regular costs

The expenditures don’t stop once you have bought and housed your rabbit; in fact, that’s only the tip of the iceberg (lettuce)!

  1. Food! Rabbits will require a small amount of specially formulated rabbit food, as well as plenty of green, leafy vegetables, hay and grass to keep their incredible guts moving along. The prices of rabbit food are very variable and, of course, a Continental Giant will require more than a Netherland Dwarf!
  2. Bedding. Rabbits love to make little nests, and will require ample, thick, clean bedding to prevent conditions such as pododermatitis (sore feet and hocks). Wood-chip shavings and a nest of hay are often advisable, however, rabbits will most probably eat the hay, so be careful in our overweight friends.
  3. Veterinary bills. Rabbits will need to be vaccinated against Myxomatosis; this virus can cause large sores on the rabbit, a severe eye inflammation and infection (conjunctivitis), and severe secondary bacterial infections. Couple all of this horribleness with inappetence, and the virus will almost certainly kill your rabbit. We must also protect against Viral Haemorrhagic Disease, or VHD. VHD can kill rabbits in under 48 hours. Both of these conditions are highly traumatic for a loving owner to have to witness, but thankfully, they are both preventable with a vaccine. Unfortunately, this does come at a cost, please call us for the latest vaccination prices.

Rabbits’ teeth are constantly erupting; they have a large amount of reserve tooth below the gum line, which means your rabbit’s teeth are always getting longer. It is essential that they have plenty of forage to grind their teeth down, however, they may also require dental treatment from us.

We must always be on the alert for accidents, and emergency veterinary bills can be covered by insurance, where you will pay a premium (monthly or annually), and an excess (a minimum contribution towards all vet costs, and the insurers will pay the rest). For this reason, we will usually encourage you to take out an insurance premium to cover your rabbit, too.

We wish you all the very best with your rabbit. They are loving, endearing and intelligent pets, and with the joys of owning a rabbit come responsibilities. It is best to be aware of the financial implications of taking on a rabbit, as many people underestimate the expenditure of rabbits on the basis of their small size!

“Once upon a time there were four little Rabbits, and their names were – Flopsy, Mopsy, Cotton-tail, and Peter” – Beatrix Potter, “The Tale of Peter Rabbit”

 

I’m taking my dog abroad – what do I need to treat for?

Ultimately, of course, it depends on where you’re going. In addition, you will need to make enquiries and find out what the legal requirements for entry are – and for re-entry into the UK afterwards!

So, what are the legal requirements?

For most EU countries, there are no particular entry requirements to take your dog abroad; however, they will not be allowed straight back into the UK afterwards unless they have been vaccinated against rabies and have a legal Pet Passport to prove it. In addition, they must have been treated against tapeworms between 24 and 120 hours before returning (unless you’re coming directly from Ireland, Finland, Malta or Norway).

If you’re travelling outside the EU, it gets more complicated. Each country sets its own entry requirements, and most of them require that your dog is certified as free from disease by a vet before entry. If in doubt, give us a call and we can advise you! Coming back from non-EU countries is also complex; some destinations are “listed countries”, which means that their requirements for re-entry into the UK are similar to those for the EU (for example, Canada, Japan and the USA); these “Listed Countries” are specified here. If you’re coming from any other country, you still need to have your dog rabies vaccinated, but they must also pass a blood test (unless the vaccination was done in an EU country and certified on a Pet Passport).

We strongly advise all clients wishing to take their dogs outside the EU to read our website and research themselves the guidelines and information well in advance of travel. Click here for the website page.

If you want more information about the legal requirements, see the DEFRA pet travel website.

What if my rabies vaccination is out of date or I don’t have the paperwork?

In that case, your dog will have to spend time in quarantine before being allowed back into the UK. They will have to stay there for up to 4 months, to demonstrate that they aren’t carrying rabies.

OK, that’s the law – do I need to do anything else?

Definitely – the legal requirements are the bare minimum, designed to protect the UK from disease (mainly rabies and the Hydatid Tapeworm, Echinococcus multilocularis). They are not intended to protect your dog from any health risks.

The specific risks to your dog’s health will of course depend on where you’re going, as the world is full of “exotic” diseases not found in the UK. In Europe, the major threats to dog health are:

Leishmania

This is a parasite that is transmitted by sandflies living around Mediterranean coastlines; it causes weight loss, skin and eye infection and inflammation, enlarged lymph nodes and chronic lameness. Although it can be treated, it is almost impossible to cure completely. The best way to prevent it is to avoid woodland and shady areas during the dawn and dusk periods, prevent your dog from sleeping outside and use an effective sandfly repellant. There is also a vaccine available – talk to one of our vets about suitable repellants and medications.

Heartworm

This is (unsurprisingly) a worm that lives in the dog’s heart, called Dirofilaria immitis. It is transmitted by mosquitoes, and eventually (but often not for 6-12 months) causes heart failure and difficulty breathing. The best prevention is by using effective mosquito repellants for dogs (our vets can advise you) and, if you’re travelling to a high-risk area (like southern France), medications to kill the parasites before they become established.

Canine Brucellosis

This is an infectious disease transmitted through infected birth fluids of bitches, and also by the venereal route (essentially, it’s a dog STD); it is most common in Eastern Europe. It can, rarely, affect humans as well, so don’t be tempted to help out with newborn puppies in a high-risk area! The best method of prevention is to avoid contact with whelping bitches, and not to let your pet have sex with any locals…

Tick-borne Diseases

Ticks can carry a wide range of nasty conditions (even in the UK we have Lyme disease and now Babesiosis); in continental Europe, infections also include Ehrlichiosis (which damages blood vessels and causes abnormal bleeding), Hepatozoonosis (most common around the Mediterranean, a protozoal parasite causing fever, weight loss, pain and anaemia), and Tick-Borne Encephalitis (a virus that damages the brain and nerves, and can infect humans, found sporadically across mainland Europe). The best way to prevent infection with these diseases is to use a tick repellent and tick-killing drug; and to remove ticks rapidly once found – ticks are unlikely to transmit disease in the first 24-48 hours of feeding.

So, if you’re planning to take your dog abroad, come in and talk to one of our vets in plenty of time, and we can put together a suitable treatment plan to make sure they come back happy and healthy!