Fireworks season is fast approaching and although we may enjoy it as humans, it may be a little stressful for our furry friends. See below our advice on keeping your pet happy and safe during this time, or have a look at our top 10 tips on keeping your pet safe this firework season.
ALWAYS
Keep dogs and cats inside when fireworks are being let off.
Close all windows and doors and block off cat flaps to stop pets escaping and to keep noise to a minimum. Draw the curtains, and if the animals are used to the particular sounds of TV or radio, switch them on.
Make sure your pet is microchipped so should they run away you are more likely to be reunited with them.
NEVER
Walk your dog while fireworks are going off.
Leave or tie your dog up outside while fireworks are being let off.
Take your dog to a firework display. Even if your dog does not bark or whimper at fireworks it doesn’t mean they are happy.
Shout at your pet if they are frightened as this will only make them more distressed.
DOGS
To further minimise distress, we suggest you install an Adaptil® diffuser in your home. The Adaptil® diffuser works like a plug-in air freshener, continuously releasing an odourless natural pheromone which helps to keep your pet feeling safe and calm. The diffuser contains a natural solution and there is no sedative effect. Xylkene® is an oral tablet which can also be used to help relieve anxiety without the use of potentially sedative drugs. In severe cases we may need to prescribe a sedative. Please discuss this with one of our veterinary surgeons.
CATS
A Feliway® diffuser is the feline equivalent to the Adaptil® diffuser. Feliway® releases feline facial pheromone, mimicking the cat’s own pheromones, helping to create a state of calmness and well-being, allowing reactions to stressful situations to be better controlled. Xylkene® can also be used in cats to help relieve anxiety without the use of potentially sedative drugs.
SMALL ANIMALS
Rabbits and guinea pigs living outside should not be forgotten. They can also become very stressed from loud noises. Bring small animals indoors or into an outhouse to muffle the sound of the fireworks, helping them feel safe and calm.
If you are concerned or would like further advice, please speak to your local Goddard vet soon.
Spot-on treatments for cats can be used to treat or prevent a wide range of parasites that can cause irritation, illness, and infection in your pet or in you and your family. Spot-on treatments are usually applied once a month and it’s important to understand how to apply them accurately and safely. Keeping up with your cat’s worm and flea treatment is important if you want to protect them from parasites.
Always check the label before applying it to your pet to make sure it’s the right one for the pet you are treating and using it at the recommended frequency.
Applying the treatment doesn’t have to be complicated. Watch our step-by-step video or follow the steps below.
Top tip: Don’t forget to remove your cat’s collar before you apply the medicine, as it could get in the way of the treatment working correctly.
Guide to applying spot-on flea treatment to your cat
Here at the Goddard Vet Group, we strongly advise using a prescribed monthly spot-on treatment for your cat. You should speak to your vet about the right one for your pet, and make sure that you read the label thoroughly before applying it.
Simply remove the tube from the packet, and then unscrew the top and use the end of the lid to open the pipette.
Part the hair and then apply the treatment directly to the skin at the back of your pet’s neck, just above their shoulders. This is so that your pet won’t be able to rub or lick it off. There’s no need to rub it in either, as the treatment will naturally disperse across their skin.
Most cats will be fine to have their treatment applied whilst resting on their bed or sitting on your lap. However, if not, you can ask someone to gently hold your cat and distract them with some treats whilst you apply the treatment. Using a food paste that they enjoy and can lick while you apply the treatment will help to make it a stress-free experience.
Helpful tips when applying spot-on treatment to your cat
If any of the treatment transfers onto you, wash it away with soapy water. The solvent in spot-on treatment may stain or damage certain materials including leather, fabrics, plastics, and finished surfaces. Allow the application to dry before permitting contact with such surfaces.
Make sure you make a note of when your pet’s next treatment is next due, so you can keep them protected.
For further support in applying your cat’s spot-on treatment, you can watch the video above.
How can Goddard Veterinary Group help?
If you have any questions or concerns about what kind of spot-on treatment your cat should be on, then our vets will be more than happy to advise you. Your pet needs to be protected from a wide range of parasites and we know that it can be overwhelming when choosing which parasite remedies are right for your pet. We can help you by reviewing the risks and offering advice based on your pet’s lifestyle.
Additionally, if your cat has had an adverse reaction to the fleas or the treatment, and you need to see a vet, you can find your local practice here.
Helpful resources
If you would like to know more about the parasites and how to reduce the risk to our cats and family please click on the links below:
Does it matter where you put flea treatment on a cat?
It is important that when applying spot-on treatments for fleas that you apply the treatment to a place where your cat can not reach it. The back of your cat’s neck is the most advised place, this ensures that it cannot be licked off and ingested.
Can I use the same spot-on treatment for cats and dogs?
No. A dog’s spot-on treatment used on a cat can prove fatal for the cat. Additionally, a cat spot-on treatment for a dog will not come in a high enough dosage, as dogs are normally larger than cats. Always make sure you use the correct treatment for the correct species.
How long does it take for spot-on treatment to work?
Spot-on treatment can take up to 24 hours to begin taking full effect and killing the fleas. During this time it is normal to see the fleas on your pet and to notice them jumping about.
How often should spot-on treatment be used?
Most spot-on treatments need to be administered once per month. With central-heating fleas can still be active in the winter months, so it is important that a regular cycle of treatments is used throughout the year to ensure the protection remains consistent. Before applying the treatment it is important to read the instructions to apply the correct dosage for your cat and at the correct frequency for the brand used.
Does spot-on treatment protect my cat from ticks?
Not all spot-on treatments protect against ticks. Your vet may recommend a monthly tablet to replace the monthly spot-on, or a collar for the warmer times of the year when tick numbers are high, please ask your vet for more information on protecting your cat from ticks and the incidence in your local area, or areas you plan to travel to with your pet. To learn more about ticks, or how to remove them the PDSA has a very useful guide.
We know you want to do all you can to keep your pet healthy, happy and safe this summer. There are a few things to think about to keep them from harm — we’ve listed our top ten tips below!
Tip number 1: Barbecues
Burns are common in both dogs and cats. Make sure your pet can’t get near the barbeque until it has cooled down.
Skewers and chicken bones in leftovers or in the bin are a big problem for dogs if they get to them. They may not even realise they have eaten them with the meat but they can do massive internal damage. To prevent this, make sure that skewers or chicken with bones aren’t left in your dog’s reach, or are put in a container. It’s also wise to take the bin out straight away to stop them from getting to any meat and skewers left in there. We know they’ll sniff them out otherwise, given the chance!
Tip number 2: Heatstroke
Hot cars are a common cause of heatstroke in dogs, which can be fatal. Never leave a dog in a car in hot weather, even if it is shady and you only intend to be 5 minutes. It isn’t worth the risk.
Shade and water is key at this time of year to prevent heatstroke. All of your pets should have this at all times in hot weather. If you are going out with your dog consider taking an umbrella and a pop-up water bowl so that they can rest in the shade and have a drink wherever you go.
Tip number 3: Hot pavements
Hot pavements can burn dogs’ paws. Ideally only take your dog out for a walk in the morning or evening when it is cooler. Also, you can try and walk on the grass instead. If you are unsure if it is too hot, follow the 7 second rule – you will soon know if it would burn their paws! Place the back of your hand on the pavement for 7 seconds, if it’s too hot for you – it’s too hot for them.
Tip number 4: Summer travels
It’s very important that when you are going away, your pet will be safe — if they’re coming with you or not!
If your pet is on regular medication, then make sure that you come to see us before you go away so you don’t run out.
If your pet is coming with you on holiday and you are travelling by car, then you need to schedule in lots of breaks (ideally at least once an hour) so that your pet can get out of the car, go to the toilet and just stretch their legs. Always make sure there is plenty of water for them to drink. Be prepared for travel sickness, many dogs and cats get travel sick. If they are beginning to look unwell then pull over at the next services to let them get some air and start to feel a little better. A long journey can be much more stressful than we can imagine, you can use pheromone sprays to reduce stress – get in touch with our team if you’d like more advice.
Tip number 5: Staying in the cattery or kennels
Make sure your pet is fully vaccinated, flea treated and wormed before they go in, you don’t want them to come out sick or infested! If your dog is going to stay with a sitter, or dog walker it’s advised that your dog gets the kennel cough vaccine, which is a quick and painless spray up the nose.
Tip number 6: Going abroad with your pet
If you plan to take your pet abroad then you will need to come in and see us in advance of your trip. Pets must have an Animal Health Certificate to travel and to qualify they will need a rabies vaccination and wormer in advance of the trip. Our vets will also give you advice about travelling and others risks when abroad.
Tip number 7: Flystrike
Rabbit owners, this one’s for you! Flystrike is where flies lay eggs on moist areas (often the back end), which then hatch to become maggots. This is very painful, as the maggots eat their way into the poor rabbit’s flesh. Any rabbit in the summer is at risk of flystrike, especially those with a wet or dirty back end as this attracts the flies. If you notice your rabbit has flystrike, ring us straight away. To prevent this, you need to check your rabbit’s bottom every day and clean it up. This should stop the flies from being attracted to that area and means you can catch it early if there is any flystrike.
Tip number 8: Fleas
Fleas are very common at this time of year and if you have a pet that goes outdoors then it is inevitable for them to get fleas. You can’t always see fleas on your pet when they have them, so it is always best to treat whether you can see them or not.
It is important that you treat your pet regularly (once a month normally but check the product you are using) and ideally with a prescription-strength product bought from us – that way you can be sure it is safe to use and is going to work!
If your pet already has fleas your house will also be infested. You will need to wash all bedding at a high temperature, hoover thoroughly including crevices in sofas and treating the house with insecticidal flea spray.
Tip number 9: Ticks
These little bloodsuckers carry some very nasty and potentially fatal diseases such as Lyme disease and, more recently, babesiosis. This is mostly a risk for dogs that go walking through long grass (don’t forget about those pesky grass seeds either!). To prevent diseases from ticks, you can regularly treat for ticks (you can get a combination product with the flea treatment) and check your dog over every time you come back from a walk. We can always give advice on tick removal and there are specific tick removal tools, this allows you to be sure you have removed it all and have not left the mouthparts in.
Tip number 10: Suncream
In the summer months, the UV rays from the sun can be a problem for our pets, just like us. There is a form of skin cancer that can be caused by too many UV rays, especially in our white (or pink nosed) pets. You can buy pet-friendly sun cream at most pet supermarkets and this only really needs to be applied to the nose and ears (especially important in cats).
Buster collars are a common sight to see with pets leaving a veterinary practice and are used most often following a surgical procedure. In this guide, Goddard’s very own Sam Green will demonstrate how to assemble and fit a buster collar to a cat with the assistance of Doda.
What is a Buster Collar?
A Buster Collar, also known as an Elizabethan Collar, is a protective shield worn around the neck of a pet to prevent biting or licking at a surgical wound that could cause the removal of stitches or infections. Buster Collars are most commonly plastic but can be bought as inflatables for additional comfort.
Why Does My Cat Need A Buster Collar?
Following any surgical procedure, your cat’s natural reaction will be to attempt to lick and clean the wound left behind. This is an instinctive reaction, but one that can be harmful to the recovery of your pet. By licking or nibbling at the area it is possible to dislodge stitches added by the vet or to cause infections in the wound. Both of these will cause negative reactions and delay the healing process from the procedure.
Assembling A Buster Collar
After a surgical procedure, you will be given a buster collar for your pet. Collars are available in a range of sizes with smaller ones often an ideal size for a cat. To assemble the collar you will need a stretchy bandage or length of fabric, alternatively, you can connect the collar to your cat’s quick-release collar.
When the collar is assembled it can be gently slid over your cat’s head and into place. This can be a good time to offer a treat as a way to reinforce this as a positive experience. Ensure the collar is fitted appropriately for your cat but that it also allows free movement and is not too tight that it may be excessively uncomfortable.
Bring the bandage to the back of your cat’s neck and tie a loose bow to fix the collar into place Just like a collar, it is recommended that at least a two-finger gap is left to make it comfortable for your pet.
How Long Should the Collar Stay On?
Buster Collars should remain on until all stitches have dissolved or been removed by a vet. During this period your cat should remain indoors to avoid unnecessary activity that lengthens the recovery period or re-opens the wound.
If you are unsure if the time is right to take off your pet’s buster collar, contact your local Goddard Veterinary Practice to get the advice of a veterinarian.
We’re delighted to welcome you and your kitten ahead of their first vaccination appointment and health check. We thought it would be useful to give you an idea as to what to expect at your appointment so you can prepare any questions you would like to raise with your vet in advance. If you have any questions before then though, you are welcome to phone us in practice and we’d be delighted to help.
Bringing your kitten to your appointment
Please bring your kitten in a clean cat carrier that your kitten is familiar with an absorbent lining and some bedding that smells of your kitten and home. For hints and tricks to making travel and vet visits more comfortable for your cat, see our blog below.
After welcoming you both, your vet will first ask you some questions and make full clinical examination of your kitten.
They will ask you details about their eating and toilet habits as well as how active they are in order to better understand how your kitten developing and to help identify any areas of concern.
2. Vaccinating your kitten
If your kitten has not yet had its first vaccine…
Your vet will administer your kitten’s first vaccination. This will protect against four important diseases: Feline Calicivirus, Feline Herpes Virus, Feline Panleucopenia Virus and Feline Leukaemia Virus.
Your kitten will be given two vaccine doses, the second of which will be three to four weeks after the first. Kittens will need to be at least 12 weeks old at the time of the second vaccine.
Due to the high cat population density in London, we recommend that kittens are kept indoors until they are old enough to be neutered (around four months of age) and until four weeks after their second vaccination when they will have maximum protection.
If your kitten has already had its first vaccine elsewhere…
We use Nobivac® vaccinations. Please let us know before your appointment, by emailing us a copy of the vaccination certificate if your kitten has had its first vaccination elsewhere. The brand of vaccination and the timing of that vaccination will influence when we need to see you, and what vaccinations your kitten will need.
A yearly booster will be needed to ensure protection against these diseases is maintained. We’ll remind you via email or text when your kitten’s annual booster jab and health check is due.
Will it hurt?
In the majority of cases kittens will not even notice the injection. Sometimes it may cause a sting or discomfort at the time of injection that will make your kitten wriggle or cry out. You may notice a small swelling at the site of injection and this can occasionally be hard or painful to touch for 3 days.
At your appointment your vet or nurse will talk with you about a number of common healthcare- related considerations to help you make the best choices for your kitten. These will include:
Parasite Control
If your kitten has already had flea or worming treatment given by the breeder or yourself, please bring details of what product was used and when it was given, to your appointment.
Kittens are very susceptible to the effects of worm and flea infections and adult cats also require regular worm and flea control to prevent serious illness, poor health and to keep your family safe.
At the appointment your vet will assess your kitten’s health, weight and lifestyle and will recommend a regular program of both treatment and prevention.
The most effective parasite treatments are often only available by veterinary prescription. We don’t recommend over-the-counter products or online products bought without a veterinary assessment and weight check.
Neutering
We advise neutering of kittens from 4 months of age, and once your kitten is fully vaccinated.
Queens (the girls): In females, the procedure is called Spaying. This involves a general anaesthetic and a clipped patch surrounding a small incision (perhaps 1cm long) on one flank through which the ovaries and uterus are removed.
Toms (the boys): For tomcats, the procedure is called castration, and involves surgical removal of both testicles. Once under anaesthetic, the vet will pluck the hair from his scrotum (“ball sack”) and then make two small incisions in it, one on each side.
We advise microchipping of kittens at either time of vaccination or at time of neutering. There is currently no legal requirement for cats to be microchipped, but this is due to come into force in the near future. If your kitten has already been microchipped by your breeder, please make sure you contact the microchip company to have the registered contact details changed to your details.
Goddard Vet Group offers its own preventative healthcare plan which means you can save money on the cost of routine vaccinations and flea and worm treatments as well as spreading payments for them throughout the year by direct debit.
As well as saving at least 21% on the costs of vaccines and parasite control, you’ll also benefit from extra discounts on pet food, neutering, dental treatments and over-the-counter purchases at your practice. It also includes the cost of microchipping.
Ask us when you come into your appointment should you wish to join or to find out how much more you could save. You can sign up in practice on the day of your kitten’s vaccination to take advantage of an immediate 30% discount. You may of course decide to join at any time you wish, though discounts will only apply from the date that you start your membership.
We recommend that you consider pet insurance to cover unexpected sickness or injury which can be costly. (This is different to preventative healthcare which is not insurance).
If you’ve not already organised pet insurance, ask us at your appointment about setting up an initial 4 weeks of free cover once the vet has assessed your kitten to be fit and healthy and free from pre-existing conditions.
Should you wish, we can pass your details to a pet insurance provider to provide your kitten with an immediate temporary four-week insurance policy.
The company can provide information about its policies which you are under no obligation to take up. Activating this free insurance can help cover the cost of unexpected veterinary treatment during this period and give you peace of mind whilst you decide which, if any, policy or insurance company is best for you.
We would advise a good quality complete kitten food such as the Royal Canin range which is stocked in our practice. If your breeder has given you food, and you would like to change to a recommended food, then you should do so gradually, over the course of about seven days. Be careful with the treats that you are giving as some may not be suitable for kittens and can cause diarrhoea.
Do not give your kitten human food.
We recommend feeding a mix of wet and dry food. Cats should eat little and often.
It is important that they always have access to clean, fresh water and they prefer water to not be located next to their food so leave bowls of water around the house for easy access.
Thanks to the hard work of committed cat lovers and feline specialists around the world we now have a much better understanding of cats, their behaviour and their environmental and healthcare needs than we did even just a few years ago.
Icatcare.org is an excellent source of information to you get you started on providing a safe and happy home for your new kitten and we are our proud that all Goddard Veterinary Group practices are members its sister organisation the International Society of Feline Medicine.
Whilst your kitten is young it is the best time to get him/ her used to being handled. Dental problems or problems with their coat commonly affect cats later in life, so starting care early on can certainly be beneficial.
The following link gives more information on how to look after your cat’s everyday health, including tooth brushing.
